This is a frequently used accessories in the world of photography. Function is to provide enough light on the object, so that the lack of light exposure with either. But later expanded its use began to produce artistic photographs. in general, now, the digital cameras comes with the flash / flash, the camera integrates with the body and there are must add them.
Using the flash can not be done of any kind but you must consider when and wherever you need to use Blitz / flash, so that will be a work of photography is good.
Blitz and GN (Guide Number)
To share / classify flash, there are several classifications that can be used. The first, based on the availability of in camera flash is divided into the built-in flash and external. Built-in flash comes from the camera own while external flash is flash through additional cables or hot shoe to the camera. In addition, we also can share based on the type / brand camera.
Dedicated flash and non-dedicated flash.
Dedicated flash is a flash that is made specifically to use certain features in a specific camera. Usually the manufacturer issued a flash camera that also for the specific range the camera and can use features such as TTL, slow sync or rear sync, etc.. While non-dedicated flash functions have a common course of most of the camera and can be used irrespective of the type / brand camera. This type of flash that usually require a lot of calculation because the flash is dedicated lighting already obtained the information from the camera so that it does not require additional settings again.
There is also the output power of the flash (GN) can be arranged and there are also who can not (fixed GN). We will likely discuss more about the flash of non-dedicated, non-TTL, and fixed GN.
In the flash photography, we will not be separated from the calculations-calculations related to the intensity of light from objects behind reflection that we lightness. Therefore, we will meet with what is often called the GN (Guide Number) or the power flash. In short we can say that flashnya be at large, it will be light one object with more light and can reach a more distant object.
GN is in essence a simple calculation of the strength of flash. We know 2 types of GN with the use of a different calculation that is m (meters) and feet (feets). Often in our calculation with the use m. This is one of the considerations also due to flash with the same strength, number and m GN different feet away. In addition, GN is generally written for the film with ISO / ASA 100 and wide-angle (35mm/24mm/20mm).
GN is the result of the time distance between the openings (f / stop or MANUAL) on certain conditions (ISO / ASA 100/35mm/m or ISO / ASA 100/35mm/feet). For example, if we want to use flash to photograph a person standing on the distance of 5m from the 35mm lens we use and we want to use f/2.8 then we need flash GN-ber 14. Calculations used APERTURE usually find it appropriate for a particular flash. For example, with a GN 28 flash to photograph the object distance of 5m is we will use f/5.6.
GN is only a guide for photographers. Not a fixed number. One of them is the ISO / ASA is used. Each increase of 1 stop on the ISO / ASA akan GN increasing cause of sqrt (2) or approximately 1.4 times (or farthest distance multiplied 1.4) and 2 stop increase in ISO / ASA GN akan cause increased 2 times (or farthest distance multiplied 2 ).
Introduction Blitz / Flash Light on the camera.
Introduction of Depth Of Field (DOF).
Depth of Field (DOF) means depth. in the field of photography, DOF is technically means that the variation range or distance between the camera and the subject of the image to produce variations in the sharpness (focus) the picture can still be accepted (no blur). so, DOF is used to indicate a specific room in the photos that get special attention by eye because of differences in sharpness (focus).
Depth Of Field is influenced by 3 things, namely:
1. Distance from the main focus of the camera.
Wide space with a sharp straight proportionate square distance objects. If we change the distance between the camera and the object of 3x (more friction with the camera back from the original position) the width of space will be a sharp 9x original width.
2. Aperture diaphragm
Wide space with a sharp straight proportionate diaphragm. Example: if the diaphragm was 2 stop of f / 8 to f/16, so wide space will be a sharp 2x original width.
3. Focal length lens is used.
Wide space sharply inverted proportionate length of the focus square. In other words, the wide space will be a sharp 4x wide-back if we change the lens from 50mm to 100mm (focal length lens half of the original).
The wide angle lens then the wide area space sharpness. This means, when the camera is in zoom-out, shoot the object that we will be more free to move forward or backward within a specified distance from the camera and still look sharp / focus. Sharp narrow space in the telephoto image, also called narrow DoF, while striking a wide space in the image is also wide DoF wide.
The more open the diaphragm, the more narrow the space sharpness. This means, set the focus in situations that are less lighting would be more problematic as the diaphragm must be opened wide and the object will not be free to move near or far from the camera as it would be out of focus (out of focus).
The combination of telephoto (zoom in all the way) and the diaphragm is wide open, will result in a sharp narrow space. One example, when taking telephoto pictures (tight shot) a singer who perform a concert at night with minimal lighting, we must carefully manage the focus, because only a few performers are moving near or far from the camera, then he will be easy to out of focus.
Introduction of Aperture and ISO
APERTURE and ISO is the need to be understood by a good photographer not just for a hobby but also for who wants be a professional photography beside SHUTTER speed. APERTURE is the size of the lens that serves to enter and forward to the film or light sensor, the size is set through the size of the diaphragm. number of the camera, in general, contained 2.8; 4; 5.6 ff. the numbers, known as f-number, so called APERTURE (opener) f / 2.8, f / 4; f / 5.6 ff. APERTURE The greater the f-number small and the small diameter also, f/16 so diameternya smaller than f / 5.6
How it works similar APERTURE pupil on the human eye, the more incoming light, the smaller pupil diameter, as well as vice versa. APERTURE space is related to the sharp or depth of field, the larger f-number, eg f/22, sharpness of the range will be wide. This means that objects in the back and in front of the main focus has good sharpness. otherwise we will get blur effects / objekdi diagram for front and behind the main focus when using a small f-number, eg f / 2.8
Shutter speed and APERTURE should get together for Exposure appropriate. ISO role is also important, the higher the ISO is used, the sensitivity to light is the greater, so the lighting was poor, and APERTURE SHUTTER speed can still be used maximally. But keep in mind, the higher the ISO is used, will be the higher level noise or grain produced.
Exposure to know whether appropriate or not, the digital camera or conventional metering facilities available. So that the occurrence of over Exposure (excess lighting) or under Exposure (lack of lighting) can be minimized.
After understanding the basic techniques have been mastered, the next practice is needed, because the art of photography is identical with the moment, and a good moment not easily repeated, skill composition and determine the point of image capture can be developed over at least someone doing a lot of practice, the other is to improve of reference, books, internet, and other sources. how good a camera is only a tool, which determine who is behind the camera.
Shutter Speed Camera Digital
Today, digital photography is growing rapidly , and automatically leave the conventional ways that require extra time and cost to see a result, the digital photography easier for us to understand the photography, the images can we see at the LCD and enables us for evaluation quickly, because of technical data relating to the images seen and recorded before, different from the Conventional Photography, we must to print them first before we can see and evaluate the results of our photos, technical data will be our first record, so it takes a lot of spend cost and time to be able to improve the ability of our photography.
Photography digital art as painting with light, in this case the camera and lens that replaces the role of brush and paint. There are two things that hold the most important role in the camera and lens, the Shutter Speed and APERTURE.
Shutter Speed is the length of time needed to illuminate what the CMOS sensor on the CCD cameras and conventional film in the camera. Camera shown on the figures 250,125,60,30,15 ff. This means that the duration of irradiation is 1 / 250 sec, 1 / 125 sec, 1 / 60 seconds, atc.
The bigger number means faster time to use, this will create the effect of the still (freeze), for example, we will photograph objects that are moving, eg car, with the effect still, we need at least SHUTTER speed above 1 / 125 seconds
Conversely when we will be taking effect with the object moves, then the required SHUTTER speed of less than 1 / 125 seconds, preferably carried out by following the movement direction of the object, this technique called panning,
Two things also from the above depending on the speed of the object moves, the more rapidly moving object, it means that the higher the SHUTTER speed needed to acquire still or moving effects that we want, Note, the lower the SHUTTER speed, will also lead to the greater possibility of a camera shaking , which will cause the results to be rocking and the stapler is not sharp
To be safe, use the SHUTTER speed above 30 or 1 / 30 seconds, I really want SHUTTER lower speed, eg 1 / 15 sec, 1 / 8 seconds or less, use it or use a tripod..
Identify types and Miscellaneous DSLR camera lens..
DSLR Camera Lens many types circulating in the market today, this is of course very confusing beginners who want to upgrade the default kit lens DSLR camera. Individual DLSR camera lenses have features and functions that different from one another. This is usually marked with the notation on each lens. Unfortunately, the brand is also a different notation to its lens. following this we will try to study how to read notation, notation on the types and Miscellaneous Lens DSLR Camera circulating in the market at this time.
This article will be discussed Types and Multiple Lens Canon only :
1. EF - Canon EF lenses can be used on all digital SLR camera Canon EOS. EF stands for Electro Focus, has the auto focus that can be driven by an Electro motor that is integrated in the lens body. All contact between the lens and the camera body is an electrically, there is no mechanical contact between the lens and the camera body.
2. USM - Ultrasonic Motor Drive - EF lenses equipped with USM drives, performance autofokus will be provide a more rapid, accurate and quiet, and consume less power compared with using the motor drive AF. There are two types of USM :
a. USM ring-type
b. USM micromotor .
USM Ring-type is always preferred because of superior performance and efficiency, and provide full-time manual focus operation without switching from the AF mode.
3. IS - Image stabilizer - Working memiminimalkan or even eliminate the blurred image due to fluctuation in the camera with the help of accelerometer
4. L - Series Lenses - the highest caste, and these range from a Canon camera lens has superior optical performance. made with a solid construction. resistance is used so intensively, in a long period of time and in any condition. This lens can be identified with a red circle around the front of the front of the lens.
5. EF-S - Mounting this lens is derived from the EF lens mount created for Canon DSLR cameras with APS-C sized image sensors.
How to Prevent The Under Exposure Photos
1. Use the highest ISO in the less light conditions (low light) or moving an object (photo sport / action) so that objects can be light enough. Weaknesses with the use of high ISO, especially on this small camera have sensor, the increase in noise (in the analog camera / film, grainy), due to the increased sensitivity of the sensor light to the way the amplifier gain sensornya. But this noise level (generally consumer digicam max ISO 400), we can still be printed to the size of a small (3-4R), if you are "allergic" to the noise / grainy, avoid ISO 400, please use ISO 200 max.
2. using flash with the low-speed (slow synch flash) so that the object and background will get a good light. This is especially for night shoot / scene, where a dark background will be enough light (bright), merely to keep in mind even though the flash, because the speed is low, try to keep the camera and the subject of the photos remain Steady (recommended to use a tripod / alternative) . Other advantages, the lower speednya, more and more natural color light native recorded.
3. Use the (+) EV (Exposure Compensation) for "Brightness" results of our image. The advantage in this way, are: increasing the brightness and the noise does not increase, because of how it works is to decrease the speed limit up "safe", where the speed is still high enough for the handheld (with a hand held camera), when this was still not enough, then setting the aperture into enlarged; related to how it works, we must consider the consequences, among others:
* The greater the value of (+) its EV, the lower speed, this is not suitable for the "freeze" movement of objects, better suited for still images.
* If the aperturenya enlarged, the DoF (Depth of Field) that will short, but this is rare, especially considering the pocket digital camera has a DoF "very" long, except for the image macro.
* Due to the brightness of this we deliberately "add", then to avoid the use of the images in the distance near / close-up (1 m or less), to avoid over Exposure; more useful for photo coverage of the near flashnya max, so do not under - Exposure results .
The question now, How much value (+) its EV (Exposure value) is needed? depending on how bright the image that we want, lighting conditions in the location shooting, and do not forget to adjust the ISO setting that we use to do the first experiment to determine the value.
Generally, the value of +2 / 3 - 1 (+0.7 - 1.0) at ISO 100-200 is enough, on the condition that requires a certain level of high brightness, may be new enough at ISO 400 (eg: group photo I had done in the max flash range). For the auto ISO setting, note its ISO range, generally between 100-200, 100-400, 50-150, depending on the brand / type of camera (even though the camera tends to choose the lowest ISO generally).
Photos Under Exposure
Our Posting today, about tips on photography , I will try to discuss about tips for taking digital pocket camera, especially to prevent the photos under poor lighting or Exposure.
Usually, the pocket digital camera users complain that the captured image because they get less light (under Exposure), especially in flash photography (indoor), this is because the camera only on this type of built-in flash or the flash low light intensity, so that reach or location limited coverage, plus a habit for taking on the distance of maximum flash range.
That often happens when :
1. In the wide angle lens (max zoom out), only the middle pot is quite bright, while at the edge / corner, tend to be dark, this was due to the limited coverage area flash.
2. At the tele lens (max zoom in), tend to be less bright overall (under), is due to zoom in on the position, opening APERTURE wane, so needed more light, shortly flash reach a result.
To avoid this problem, we need to know the ability of a camera flash, the camera's pocket is generally given only reach max flashnya data, such as: wide angle: 3 m, tele: 2 m, at ISO 100.
Each increase of 1 stop / double (ISO 200), the distance range of flash page max increased 1.4 times, the increase in the 2 stop / quadruple (ISO 400) flash distance max increased 2 time, when the ISO down to its ½ (ISO 50) distance flash max decreased 0.7 times. To prevent so under Exposure, try taking in the distance before / at the bottom of the flash range max..
About Me
I was a beginner who wants to learn about the English language, photography and computer, with reading, understanding and activities in everyday makes me want to learn more about photography and the English language, what I know and get from the internet and other media I want write in this blog, that will improve our knowledge and you. i know, my English grammer is bad:) if you wants give comments, please, but not spam, thank you..
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